It is not an understatement to say I am obsessed with winter dressing. Styling for winter weather is not only practical (it gets very cold where I live) but also joyous. As I was layering for church the other day as the temperature had dipped into the 20’s, I was mulling over why I love this season’s style so much. I realized it has to do with how much more polished and coordinated an outfit looks with a topper like a jacket or long coat. The level of interest dials up naturally with more layers and coats tend to be more tailored, which can provide polish to even the simplest of outfits.
Jeans and a sweater? They are fine. Add a bold plaid coat on top and the outfit becomes extraordinary.
Similarly, the weather serves as a limitation for your summer wardrobe. Layers are out of the question when it is 90 degrees and sunny. Layers in Summer = Hot Flash = Wardrobe Meltdown… at least, this is how it always goes for me. Anyone else? Just me. Mmmk, cool.
I end up in a linen skirt and t-shirt or shorts and a tank most days, which, while comfortable, is harder for me to be fully satisfied with when I look in the mirror. The simplicity can be a nice change, but it can quickly swerve into the land of boredom.
My coat wardrobe is something I have invested time and effort in for over ten years, and I love each piece like my own children…okay, not quite like my own children, I’m not completely insane. I love them like other people’s children, the well-behaved ones who clean up the play room before they leave and compliment my cooking.
As I am writing this, I can spot the rack holding all of my winter coats, and I can remember when and why I purchased each one. The navy blue mixed plaid I discovered on steep discount and fell in love with its funky take on a classic pattern. The deep navy fur was a ten-year anniversary present from my husband. The brown wool coat I designed when I couldn’t find anything I liked. The ski coat I bought on credit when I didn’t have the money and which took me years to pay off (I do not recommend this approach). Others are items I have picked up over the years to fill a color or fit gap or simply because I couldn’t do without them.
Most of my outerwear is what I would describe as highly tailored : peak lapels, princess seams, classic lines and versatile colors. Others are more eclectic : funky plaids, blown-out oversized houndstooth, dramatic accents.
I love each one for its own individual merit, but if I was forced under duress to narrow it down to a capsule outerwear wardrobe, here are the four I could not do without:
The Trench Coat - So timeless and versatile I cannot do without it. Whether I pop it on over leggings and a hoodie while I travel, or throw it over a button-up and trousers, it gives an extra ten classy points to any outfit. Look for a classic color way, such as navy or camel or khaki - they are versatile colors and age as well as Bradley Cooper (pre-facelift, of course). I have found a black trench to be versatile but a bit too austere for everyday wear, but you be the judge.
The Long Coat - Everyone needs a long coat, and by long, I mean a coat that falls past the knee. This coat should not be a puffer coat. It should be made from as much wool or cashmere as you can afford - the natural fibers will age well and hold up to consistent wear and tear. When in doubt, I have found beautiful long coats with a high content of wool on second-hand sites such as Poshmark and Thred-Up, just be extra certain of your size and ask the seller for exact measurements.
This coat can be dressed up or dressed down easily and is what I reach for when a winter wedding comes up and I need a polished topper in a pinch.
The Casual, Sporty Coat - this is where the puffer coat can come in if it must. I hold the very strong opinion that puffer coats are only required in the mountains, at an 8am kids soccer game, or if you are climbing Mount Everest.
Staying warm can be accomplished in so many other, better ways. A classic, navy pea coat is a favorite of mine for this category. It looks great over jeans and leggings, is polished in a cropped cut, and never looks out of style. It is also something I have reached for when feeling lazy and wanting something simple and comfortable. Size up to layer over a sweatshirt.
The Fun Coat - I had to think hard about adding this one to the list because it doesn’t seem like it should fit into a capsule wardrobe. Let me tell you a story to convince you as to why everyone should have a fun coat:
Years ago, I was working too many hours at a job I disliked. I was miserable. Uncharacteristically, I went into a downtown boutique on a whim and purchased a very bold, oversized black and white houndstooth coat. It had a blown out pattern on the body of the coat with sweater-like leg-of-mutton sleeves. It wasn’t classic or timeless. I had no idea what I would wear it with. But it was weird and wild and I was feeling a little wild at the time.
It sat in my closet for months, a shocking reminder of an impulse purchase I hadn’t planned, sassily peeking out between my very staid and sober black and gray wool coats. What had I been thinking? Spending a not insignificant amount of money on a coat I tried on once in a pattern that was, for me, outrageous was not my typical approach to investment shopping.
So one day, I put it on. Feeling a little unsure, I wore it on the weekend to the grocery story. I was immediately stopped by a woman asking where I had gotten it. Since then, I’ve worn it everywhere: theatre, sports events, the office, the backyard. I have received more compliments on this coat than any other in my closet. It’s funky and unexpected and unlike anything else I own, and I love it. It stands out when I do not feel like fitting in. It makes me happy in the most unexpected of ways.
Which is why I believe everyone should have a coat they own just for fun, something a little surprising and memorable. Not because it’s timeless or high-quality (although it can be both those things, if you want it to be), but because you feel good in it and it makes you smile.
Building an outerwear capsule wardrobe you love is not an overnight endeavor. It has taken me years of trial and error to find a coat to fill each of these categories (and then some :). Don’t feel the need to do it in the next two weeks; it is truly a labor of love and time.
Instead, put this list in the back of your mind as you look through your outerwear this season and identify the gaps you may have to feel in the years to come. Take note when you’re asked last minute to go with a friend to the Nutcracker at the local performing arts center - do you have a coat you feel beautiful in that looks good with heels and a sparkly dress? When you’re driving four hours to your aunt’s house for Christmas, do you have a comfy, presentable coat you can grab and throw on over your leggings?
One last pro tip: if you have a lovely, stylish friend who is near to your size and whose outerwear wardrobe you are envious of, ask to borrow one of her coats for an event or over a weekend. Try one in a style you haven’t purchased before, or maybe in a color you’d like to test out. It is the optimal way to find out what you like wearing without the commitment of a purchase.
Happy shopping!
Elise
