MAKING MARTINDALE

What is Viscose? And Why It Should Matter to You

What is Viscose?  And Why It Should Matter to You

Note from our founder:

Like many of us, I have been spending the past few years learning more and more about what I wear.  Educating myself about different fibers, both natural and man-made, has helped me better understand what I am putting on my body and the impact those fibers have on my own personal health and the health of the planet.

There is no one, perfect fiber.  Each one has its advantages and its drawbacks.  Is a wool sweater you only wear once and then donate better than a polyester rain jacket you've worn and owned for the past 20 years?  These are the questions we should be asking.  

The best thing we can do for the earth is educate ourselves and then do the next right thing.

I hope this article helps you in your journey to build a more mindful wardrobe.

- Elise

So, what is viscose?

Viscose is a soft, breathable fabric made from wood pulp. Often confused with synthetic materials, it's actually a semi-synthetic fiber which combines the comfort of natural fibers with the versatility of manufactured textiles.


TL : DR

Viscose is a semi-synthetic fiber made by dissolving wood pulp from trees such as beech, eucalyptus, pine, or bamboo into a cellulose solution before spinning it into fine threads.

The result is a fabric that is:

  • Soft and smooth
  • Lightweight
  • Breathable
  • Highly absorbent
  • Beautifully drapey

Because of its silky feel and relatively affordable price, viscose is commonly used in dresses, blouses, linings, skirts, and lightweight knitwear.

While it shares some characteristics with silk, viscose behaves very differently when it comes to durability, wrinkle resistance, and care.


Why Should You Care?

Understanding what viscose is can help you become a smarter shopper.

As our founder mentioned earlier, there is no one, perfect fiber, and viscose is no different.  

To aid you in your search for the best textiles, we put together a little chart to help you better understand the 

Characteristic Viscose Cupro (Bemberg) Silk Polyester
Source Regenerated wood pulp Cotton linter (cotton byproduct) Silkworm cocoons Petroleum
Fiber Type Semi-synthetic Semi-synthetic Natural Synthetic
Feel (Hand) Soft, smooth Exceptionally smooth, cool, silky Luxuriously smooth Varies from soft to slick
Drape Excellent Outstanding Outstanding Fair to excellent (depends on weave)
Breathability Excellent Excellent Excellent Fair
Moisture Absorption High Very high High Very low
Warmth Cool to moderate Cool Moderate Moderate
Wrinkle Resistance Poor Fair Fair Excellent
Durability (Dry) Moderate Good Good Excellent
Strength When Wet Weakens significantly Better than viscose Good Excellent
Elasticity Low Moderate Moderate High
Static Build-Up Low Very low Very low High
Pilling Resistance Moderate Good Good Good
Color Vibrancy Excellent Excellent Excellent Excellent
Typical Uses Dresses, blouses, linings Luxury linings, dresses, blouses Luxury apparel, scarves, eveningwear Activewear, outerwear, linings, everyday apparel
Biodegradable Yes* Yes* Yes No
Compostable Sometimes* Sometimes* Yes (untreated) No
Renewable Resource Yes Yes Yes No
Typical Price $$ $$$ $$$$ $
*Provided the fabric isn't heavily treated with synthetic finishes, coatings, or blended with non-biodegradable fibers.

What This Means for Shoppers

  • Choose viscose if you want a soft, breathable fabric with beautiful drape at a relatively affordable price.

  • Choose cupro if you're looking for a premium lining or a silky fabric with exceptional breathability and fluid movement.

  • Choose silk if you value natural luxury, elegance, and timeless appeal.

  • Choose polyester when durability, wrinkle resistance, and easy care are more important than breathability or moisture management.

Fabric Best For
Viscose Lightweight dresses, blouses, skirts, and garments where fluid drape is the priority.
Cupro Luxury linings and elevated everyday garments that benefit from a cool, silky feel.
Silk Premium blouses, dresses, scarves, formalwear, and heirloom-quality pieces.
Polyester Performance apparel, travel clothing, outerwear, and garments that need durability and easy care.

 


What Is Viscose?

At its core, viscose begins as cellulose, the primary structural component found in plants.

Manufacturers harvest wood from fast-growing trees such as beech, eucalyptus, spruce, or pine and break it down into purified wood pulp. That cellulose is then dissolved in a chemical solution, transformed into a thick liquid, and forced through tiny spinnerets to create long, continuous fibers.

Those fibers are washed, stretched, and spun into yarn before being woven or knitted into fabric.

Because the raw material comes from plants but undergoes significant chemical processing, viscose is classified as a semi-synthetic fiber rather than a fully natural or fully synthetic one.

Unlike polyester or nylon, which are made from petroleum, viscose begins with a renewable plant source.


Why Is It Called Viscose?

The name comes from the thick, honey-like liquid created during manufacturing.

That viscous solution is what eventually becomes the fibers used to make the finished fabric.

Now that I know it's called viscose because it comes from a "viscous" solution, I feel like we could have done a better job with the naming. 

You may also hear viscose referred to as viscose rayon. Technically, viscose is the most common type of rayon, which is a broader category of regenerated cellulose fibers.


Marketing Myth

Myth: Viscose is just another plastic fabric like polyester OR Viscose is just as sustainable and natural as silk or wool.

Reality: Viscose starts as natural wood pulp, not petroleum. While it undergoes extensive processing, it remains a regenerated cellulose fiber rather than a fully synthetic one.

However, because of its processing requirements, it is not as close to a natural fiber as wool or silk.

Here's a good way to think about it:

If polyester is a highly processed food, such as Cheetos, and wool is a low-processed food like an apple, then Viscose would close to applesauce.  It has gone through processing to reach it's current form, but it still has ties to its original form.

Who the hell knows what a Cheetos natural form is...

Until next time,

Elise