Bemberg Cupro: How I stumbled onto a fabric better than silk

When I started my design journey, I did not know much about lining fabrics (I'm afraid very little has changed).  However, I did remember the distinct feeling of trying on a coat with a Cupro lining.  The lining fabric was smooth and silky, with a more dense hand than standard silk lining.  It was a joy to slip the coat on and off, and, without understanding what I had committed myself to, I decided Cupro would be my lining of choice.

It was only after spending a small fortune importing the fabric directly from Japan and finally seeing a full roll of the fabric in person that I realized how magical it is.  By sheer luck, I had fallen in love with one of the most beautiful and versatile fabrics in the world.  

There is a reason it is referred to as "vegan silk".  Biodegradable, sustainable, static-resistant, made from cotton linter, with a beautiful hand and excellent drape, it is a joy to work with, even if it can have a mind of its own on the cutting table.

Although it is rarely advertised to consumers, Bemberg has become one of the gold standards for luxury garment linings, which is why premium brands like MARTINDALE, come back to it over and over again.

Read on to learn more about our designer's favorite lining fabric:

What is Bemberg Cupro?

Bemberg Cupro is a regenerated cellulose fabric made from cotton linter, the fine, silky fibers that cling to cotton seeds after the longer cotton fibers have been removed.

Rather than allowing this byproduct of cotton production to go to waste, it is purified and transformed into an exceptionally fine fiber through a specialized manufacturing process.

The result is a fabric that is:

• Silky smooth

• Highly breathable

• Lightweight

• Anti-static

• Beautifully drapey

Unlike synthetic polyester linings, Bemberg is cellulose-based, giving it many of the comfort characteristics associated with natural fibers.

Is Bemberg the Same as Cupro?

Not exactly.

Cupro is the generic name for the fiber.

Bemberg® is the premium brand name owned by Asahi Kasei, the Japanese company that has been producing cupro for more than a century.

Today, Asahi Kasei is effectively the world's only large-scale producer of authentic Bemberg Cupro, making the name almost synonymous with high-quality cupro.

Not all cupro is Bemberg, but all Bemberg is cupro.

How is Bemberg Cupro Made?

The process begins with cotton linter—the soft fuzz left behind after harvesting cotton.

These tiny cellulose fibers are purified and dissolved into a liquid solution before being extruded through microscopic spinnerets to create continuous filaments. Those filaments are then washed, stretched, and spun into yarn before being woven into fabric.

Although the manufacturing process is highly technical, the finished fiber behaves much more like a luxurious natural fiber than a traditional synthetic.

What Does Bemberg Feel Like?

The first thing most people notice is how cool and smooth it feels against the skin.

Compared to other common lining fabrics:

• Softer than polyester

• Cooler than acetate

• More breathable than nylon

• Less slippery than silk while maintaining an elegant hand

It has a fluid drape that allows garments to move gracefully while making coats and jackets easier to put on and take off.

Why Luxury Brands Use Bemberg

High-end tailoring depends just as much on the inside of a garment as the outside.

A quality lining should:

• Allow the garment to slide easily over clothing

• Help regulate temperature

• Prevent static electricity

• Improve comfort during long periods of wear

• Support the structure of the garment without adding unnecessary weight

Bemberg excels in all of these areas, which is why it has remained a favorite among luxury manufacturers for decades.

Is Bemberg Breathable?

Yes.

One of Bemberg's biggest advantages over polyester is its ability to manage moisture.

The cellulose fibers absorb and release moisture more effectively than petroleum-based synthetics, helping reduce the clammy feeling that inexpensive linings often develop.

This makes it especially comfortable in changing temperatures or when layered over sweaters and suits.

Is Bemberg Sustainable?

Compared with many synthetic lining fabrics, Bemberg makes use of an existing byproduct of cotton production rather than requiring new petroleum resources.

The fiber is derived from renewable cellulose, and modern production emphasizes resource recovery and environmental controls.

As with any manufactured textile, its overall environmental footprint depends on the production process, but using cotton linter helps make productive use of material that would otherwise have limited value.

Does Bemberg Wrinkle?

Bemberg is relatively wrinkle resistant, though not completely wrinkle proof.

Because it is a lightweight cellulose fiber, it can wrinkle more easily than polyester but generally relaxes well once the garment is hung.

Inside a structured garment like a coat or blazer, wrinkling is rarely a concern.

How Do You Care for Bemberg?

Always follow the care instructions provided by the garment manufacturer.

Most garments lined with Bemberg are dry clean only, not because the lining itself cannot tolerate moisture, but because the outer shell fabric—often wool, cashmere, or silk—requires professional care.

Common Uses

Bemberg is most commonly found in:

• Luxury coats

• Tailored blazers

• Suit jackets

• Trousers

• Skirts

• Dresses

• High-end linings

• Premium accessories

Bemberg vs. Polyester Lining

At Martindale, we believe the best garments are often defined by details you never see.

As shoppers, we have been taught to focus most of our attention on the outer fabric, such as the wool or cashmere.  However, a true clothing connoisseur knows you spend more time in contact with the lining of a coat or jacket than you do with the outside.  Every time you move, the lining determines how freely the movement is.  Every time you take the coat on or off, the lining decides how pleasurable or difficult this simple action will be.  When a designer has used a cheap lining, you can feel it the moment you slip your arm into the sleeve.

Bemberg Cupro has earned its reputation because it delivers the comfort of natural fibers with the consistency required for luxury tailoring. 

Be sure to experience the magic of our Cupro lined coats for yourself here.

Until next time,

Elise