A Note From Our Founder:
As clothing construction has gotten cheaper and cheaper due to fast fashion, linings have gone by the wayside as an unnecessary cost.
This is an absolute shame as a good lining will 1) increase the life of your coat, and 2) make wearing it a joy instead of a hassle. Don't skimp on your linings.
I cannot live without a good lining. Cupro is my all-time favorite lining - sustainable, biodegradable, and as smooth as silk? Yes, please.
Unlike polyester, cupro reduces static electricity, meaning the unbearable hair frizziness you get from sliding into a polyester lined coat is non-existent with a cupro or silk lining.
I also love adding a contrast lining which adds a peek of drama to your outfit as you strut down the street.
If a designer is creating for longevity and style, linings should be given as much consideration as the coat fabric itself.
Happy learning!
-Elise
"A good lining can be the difference between a bad hair day and an exceptional hair day."
So Why Does a Lining Matter?
A lining is the layer of fabric sewn inside a garment, between you and the outer shell.
At first glance, it may seem like a purely cosmetic detail. After all, it covers the seams and gives the inside of a coat a finished appearance.
But a lining has several important jobs.
A well-chosen lining can:
- Help a coat slide easily over your clothing
- Protect the outer fabric from wear
- Improve comfort
- Help the coat drape properly
- Increase durability
- Make getting dressed easier
Not every coat needs a full lining, though.
Depending on the design, climate, and intended use, a coat may be fully lined, partially lined, or completely unlined.
None of these choices automatically indicates better or worse quality.
The right choice depends on the purpose of the garment.
Why Should You Care?
A well executed lining is a good indication of a high quality coat, one you can feel better about spending your hard-earned money on.
What Does a Lining Actually Do?
Other than saving your sanity by reducing static electricity? It does A LOT more too. It serves several practical functions that improve both comfort and longevity.
A Good Lining Reduces Friction
One of the biggest jobs of a lining is reducing friction.
Smooth lining fabrics allow a coat to slide easily over sweaters, shirts, and dresses.
Without a lining, textured fabrics such as wool can grip your clothing, making the coat more difficult to put on and take off.
Elise's Pro Lining Tip #1:
CAVEAT EMPTOR (Ancient Roman for "Buyer Better Watch Out") - A polyester lining can increase friction and static electricity, thereby negating all the good qualities a cupro or silk lining will give you.
It Protects the Outer Fabric
Every time you wear a coat, the inside rubs against your clothing.
A lining absorbs much of that daily wear, helping preserve the outer fabric over time.
This is particularly important in areas that experience frequent movement, such as the shoulders, underarms, and sleeves.
Elise's Pro Lining Tip #2:
If a coat is not lined, check for other high quality finishings like Hong Kong seams, bound seams, or flat felled seams. Each of these finishes will look good while also increasing the longevity of a coat, even without a lining.
If a coat is both unlined and without the high-quality seam finishes, stay away from it. It was not made to last beyond a season.
It Improves Drape
A quality lining helps a coat move with your body.
Rather than catching or bunching, the lining allows the outer fabric to hang more naturally.
This contributes to the smooth, elegant appearance people often associate with well-made tailoring.
It Can Improve Comfort
Some wool fabrics can feel slightly textured against the skin.
A smooth lining creates a more comfortable barrier while still allowing the beauty of the outer fabric to take center stage.
Fully Lined vs. Half Lined vs. Unlined
Not every garment benefits from the same amount of lining, so knowing the difference while shopping can lead to more informed buying decisions.
Fully Lined
A fully lined coat has lining throughout the body and sleeves. This is the most common choice for tailored wool coats and structured outerwear, like those we make at MARTINDALE.
Advantages include:
- Easier layering
- Improved drape
- Better protection for the outer fabric
- A refined interior finish
- Greater comfort over textured clothing
Fully lined garments are often ideal for cooler weather and more structured silhouettes.
Half Lined or Partially Lined
Some jackets are lined only through the upper back, shoulders, or sleeves.
This reduces weight while still improving comfort in the areas where it's needed most.
Partially lined garments are common in lightweight blazers and transitional jackets.
They strike a balance between structure and breathability.
Unlined
An unlined garment has no separate interior fabric.
Instead, the inside construction remains visible or is finished with techniques that make the seams attractive on their own.
Unlined garments often feel:
- Lighter
- Cooler
- More relaxed
- Less structured
They're especially popular for linen jackets, lightweight overshirts, and casual outerwear designed for warmer weather.
An unlined garment is not automatically lower quality.
In fact, because the interior is visible, manufacturers often need to use cleaner seam finishes and more precise construction.
However, if you read Elise's Pro Tip #2, an unlined coat should be finished excellently on the inside. If the coat is unlined and poorly finished, WALK AWAY. That thing is going to disintegrate, most likely while you wear it.
Choosing the Right Lining Fabric
The material used for the lining can have just as much influence on comfort as the outer fabric itself.
Some of the most common options include:
| Lining Material | Best Known For |
|---|---|
| Cupro (Bemberg) | Breathable, silky feel, excellent drape |
| Viscose | Soft, smooth, breathable, affordable |
| Silk | Luxurious hand, lightweight, elegant |
| Polyester | Durable, wrinkle resistant, cost-effective, less breathable |
| Acetate | Smooth finish with moderate durability |
The best lining isn't always the most expensive one.
It should complement the purpose of the garment and the fabric it's paired with.
For example, a winter wool coat benefits from a durable, breathable lining that layers easily over sweaters, while a lightweight summer jacket may not need a full lining at all
Is a Fully Lined Coat Always Better?
One of the biggest misconceptions in fashion is that more lining automatically means higher quality.
In reality, the best lining depends entirely on the garment's purpose.
A structured winter overcoat designed to be worn over sweaters will benefit from a full lining. A Linen jacket will crease less with a high quality lining. Likewise, an unlined chore coat or overshirt may intentionally emphasize breathability and ease of movement.
A well-considered lining supports the garment's purpose.
At MARTINDALE, we fully line all of our jackets and coats to maximize longevity and comfort.
Four Questions to Ask Yourself When Shopping for A Coat:
Does the lining feel smooth?
It should glide easily over your clothing rather than grabbing or creating friction.
Is it securely sewn?
Look for clean stitching around the armholes, hem, and front facings.
Loose stitching or puckering can indicate rushed construction.
Does it hang smoothly?
The lining shouldn't pull, sag, or twist inside the garment.
A properly installed lining should move naturally with the coat.
Does it complement the outer fabric?
A heavy wool coat paired with an extremely thin lining may feel unbalanced.
Likewise, an overly heavy lining can make a lightweight jacket feel bulky.
Good design is about harmony.
The lining and outer fabric should work together rather than competing with one another.
Can You Replace a Lining?
Yes! In fact, we encourage you to repair your coats as much as possible to maximize their lifespan, and repairing tore or worn out linings is one of the best ways to extend a coat's life.
Professional tailors regularly replace worn linings while preserving the original outer shell.
This can dramatically extend the life of a garment and is one of the reasons high-quality wool coats are often considered long-term investments.
Unlike a worn fabric shell, a damaged lining doesn't necessarily mean the coat has reached the end of its life.
Frequently Asked Questions
Are unlined coats lower quality?
No. Many premium jackets and coats are intentionally left unlined to improve breathability, reduce weight, or showcase beautiful interior construction. An unlined garment often requires cleaner seam finishes because the inside remains visible.
However, warm wool coats need a good lining. This should be a non-negotiable when investing in outerwear.
Always consider what you're purchasing and always look inside to understand the quality of the lining and the construction.
What's the best lining for a wool coat?
We believe a biodegradable, sustainable lining is almost always the best choice, such as Cupro, silk or even viscose. We are big fans of Cupro because of its closed-loop production and sustainability.
Does a lining make a coat warmer?
A lining can add a small amount of warmth by creating another layer and helping reduce drafts, but the outer fabric and any insulating layers have a much greater impact on how warm a coat will feel.
Can a worn lining be repaired?
Often, yes. A skilled tailor can frequently replace a worn lining while preserving the rest of the coat, extending the garment's lifespan for many more years.
Continue Learning
Continue exploring the Martindale Textile Library:
- What is Worsted Wool?
- What is Wool Gabardine?
- Should You Be Concerned About Polyester?
- What is Viscose?
- Cashmere vs. Wool: Which one is actually better?
