Today, I woke up at 5:45 and began reading the library’s copy of “The Tailoring Book”. After many, many months of sitting and thinking, I have come to the realization that I have a problem: the vision in my head isn’t becoming a reality. When I have an idea for a new design, there is a breakdown in concept when I attempt to communicate it to a third-party. Which either stems from 1) I do not have enough knowledge to properly communicate what I want, 2) my design partner is not technically proficient enough to execute the vision at the level I need, or 3) a diabolical combination of both.
Currently, my skills are not at the level they need to be for me to execute the designs haunting me in my mind. Therefore, I need to upskill myself as much as possible and as quickly as possible. Enter: Martindale School of Fashion.
ChatGPT and I created a fashion course for me to build up my sewing and textile knowledge, which has already born fruit.
As I was reading through The Tailoring Book this morning, I decided to attempt my first, custom pencil skirt, vest, trousers, and button-up shirt. I discovered a stunning wine and black herringbone super 100s wool flannel to use for the skirt, vest, and trousers. I have always wanted a burgundy/merlot colored three piece suit, but I have never found one. This is my time to create my dream suit, while also teaching myself some much needed couture and high street tailoring skills!
But it was the button up shirt which really set my imagination whirring. I purchased a dusty rose colored cotton poplin to contrast the wine colored wool nicely. But a typical button up seemed mundane to pair with such a beautiful wool. After rolling it over in my head for a few hours, I have decided I will keep the majority of the shirt to its classic shape, but then accent the collars and French cuffs by attempting to weave the poplin into a tone on tone herringbone pattern.
This part is called “unconscious incompetence”. I am highly optimistic because I know so little about creating textiles that I don’t know enough to be scared. Instead, I am wildly optimistic about what I may be able to create.
Martindale Textile Factory Attempt #1: Basket Weave Linen
I do not have any plain cotton, so I used plain weave linen instead. Although the strips are easy to handle, the fabric is “woodgy” meaning it moves practically of its own volition, which makes cutting it perfectly on grain nearly impossible. Aside: I need to get better at cutting on grain…
Because I could not cut it perfectly on grain, there was some warping of the strips and it also frayed excessively.
Taping down the warp ends worked well, but I will need another solution when I get into larger format weaves. Tomorrow’s problem.
Is it perfect? No. Is it even good? No. But I officially just made my first custom textile. Boom.
My ultimate desire is to take this double faced cashmere I have had on hand for years and create a herringbone weave with it for the back of a winter coat. This is the mullet of all coats: business in the front, party in the back. It will be a standard, tailored black coat in front, but when you turn, it becomes a work of art. This is why I need to get better fast: to execute on this type of design. Wish me luck.
Until next time...assuming there is a next time...
EM
